You say "To - may - to," I say "To - mah - to." You say "Foley," I say "Fah -lly." Whatever you do, don't call the whole thing off. This is one great dive for divers of all abilities. Folly Cove has a northern exposure, with a wonderful wall on its western side. Depths range from 0 to 60 feet and more, at the outer edges of the mouth of the Cove at both the east and west sides. I don't have much experience on the east, but on the west you will find abundant anemones in a variety of colors, striped bass, lobsters, starfish, mussels, and occasional cod and pollack. You swim out over sand which is rich with giant moon snails, flounders, skates, sand dollars and a variety of crabs. Folly Cove is the only place I've seen a horseshoe crab on Cape Ann, and I've heard tell of a torpedo ray taking up transient residence here as well. The late Norm Despres, a well known, well liked member of the Frogmen and accomplished underwater photographer absolutely loved this dive site. Take a moment to sit on the granite bench dedicated to his memory and gaze out over the cove as you rest up and load your car at the end of a dive.

The best way to do the west side is to take a heading on the gazebo you will see up on the western edge, and snorkel out across the bay until you reach the edge. Drop down into about 20 - 30 feet of water, and just follow the wall, with all its cracks, crevices and small overheads, out, and down until you decide to turn around at approximately 1/2 tank time. You can then follow the wall all the way back, or head out across the sand, chasing crabs and skates on your way in.

A night dive here will have you hooked on night diving forever. I did a twilight dive here last spring - and watching all the critters emerge from their holes as darkness fell was breath taking. There is an abundance of finned life at the cove that only comes out at night.

Flags are a must. Strict compliance with game laws - always encouraged anyhow - is also required. The "Green Meanies," also known as the Environmental Police, are famous for hanging around the cove, watching from a distance, and swooping down on scuba divers with catch bags, asking anyone and everyone to show their licenses, the contents of their trunks, and who knows what else.

OK, there are a few things about the cove that could be improved: Despite the fact that there is always room to park in the lot, and despite the fact that few people ever elect to hang at the cove unless they are diving, parking is strictly restricted to Gloucester residents only. The ticketing is aggressive. This despite the fact that the lot is on State Route 127, and may, arguably, not be subject to city parking restrictions. Unless you have the time to fight the ticket, stop in the lot only long enough to drop your gear and your buddy, and then go park on the street just outside the parking lot of the seafood restaurant, about 3/4 of a mile back down the road towards Rockport.

The reason you drop your buddy and then you walk back, is because while you are gone, your buddy can start bringing your stuff and his down to the water level, a 25 foot climb down one of two "natural" stairways. Not exactly Cathedral Rocks, but a bit taxing nonetheless. Once on the "beach" you are best off spreading a tarp. Folly Cove doesn't have much in the way of sand, but there is a good bit of organic matter (sea weed, straw, etc.) that accumulates on the beach and is best kept off you and your gear.

Finally, there are the famous Folly Cove Ankle Breakers. The entry and exit here can be quite painful if not done near high tide. The waterline at the cove is studded with baseball, grapefruit and watermelon sized and shaped rocks that are almost impossible to step around. If you don't bruise a foot, you may twist an ankle. Or, you could just fall down. The sooner you are down, and snorkelling, the better - so as I said - do it near high tide. My first exit at Folly Cove was all it took to send me flying back to the dive shop for hard soled boots.

But I did come flying back to Folly Cove, soon thereafter!

Directions: [Map] Take Route 128 North to Grant Circle (the first - Friendly's - rotary). Take the third exit from the rotary, putting you on 127. About 5 miles on 127, passing Plum Cove, Lanesville, and signs for Annisquam Village brings you to Folly Cove on the left, There is a sign, a small parking area, and the granite bench.